Grape Distillates

Brandy distilled from grapes make luscious digestifs. A snifter of a Cognac, Brandy de Jerez or Grappa are wonderful ways to end a meal in your establishment. These days, however, brandies are branching out, turning up in cocktails, aperitifs and are increasingly found in the kitchen. By Pamela Govinda

Armagnac

The oldest eau de vie from France, Armagnac has a long history of grape distillation dating back to the thirteenth century. This brandy has been overshadowed by Cognac, disparaged by some as a "cruder" style of brandy. Yet more and more bartenders, consumers and sommeliers are appreciating Armagnac's rustic, sweet flavors. Hugh Crickmore, the sommelier at Marseilles restaurant in Manhattan has no problems getting customers to order a glass after a meal, but finds the key is often in the hand sell. "We have a large after-dinner category of drinks that are printed up with the dessert menu. If we think a customer may like a particular style or there is a fit with a specific dish, we often recommend Armagnac."

When it comes to food, Armagnac is a perfect partner. "Aged Armagnacs go well with figs and dried fruit dishes - elements that are present in the taste of old Armagnac itself," Crickmore explains. "Alternatively, the acidity of Armagnac pairs really well with rich dishes like crème brulee." So, before you limit this brandy to strictly post-dinner drinking, consider serving any one of these Armagnacs with the likes of fois gras or creamy, spicy desserts.

In an effort to raise awareness of Armagnac and its versatility, the Lux marketing group held an Armagnac Signature Cocktail competition for New York bartenders. Ratha Chau, general manager of Fleur de Sel, created the Pear Armagnac, which won first prize. Is Armagnac taking the cocktail scene by storm? "Well no, but it is up to us as bartenders to introduce the product to our guests," says Ratha. He has discovered Armagnac "blends well with fruity ingredients and nuts, aspects that you will find in Armagnac, and it makes an especially good cocktail for the chilly season."

Armagnac

V.S.O.P Laressingle
A subtle nose with traces of cloves and spice; caramel notes dominate the palate and it has an appealing oily texture that is both elegant and smooth.

V.S.O.P Castarede
This possesses a pretty nose of cooked sugar, it tastes wonderfully spicy and jammy.

De Montal - Reserve Personnelle
A rich honeyed nose with hints of lilacs, it finishes with raisins and bitter chocolate on the end palate.

Vintage Armagnacs

1985 Ch. du Tariquet
A mouth-filling brandy with lots of spice and cooked apples on the palette.

1972 Ch. Laubade
Floral and fruity aromas with hints of marmalade

1959 Castarede
Burnt sugar and dried fruit aromas, it has butterscotch flavors and is rounded and soft.

Cognac

Cognac has long held the regal throne of brandy. It is a delicious spirit that is famous for accompanying cigars.

However, Cognac is expanding beyond the realm of digestif. Beth Cotenoff, the director of public relations at SOPEXA, Food and Wines from France, says that the current age of the cocktail is seeing a return to retro drinks like the Sidecar and others that make great aperitifs. "A V.S.O.P. Cognac with tonic and lime makes a great before dinner drink that is light and refreshing," Cotenoff says. "Cocktails like these are particularly appealing to a younger market that hasn't yet developed a taste for straight Cognac." Creating Cognac cocktails or featuring some classics will not only expand the uses of brandy but may also introduce customers to a spirit with which they are unfamiliar with.

Cognac

Courvoisier VSOP Fine Champagne
Rich combinations of blue and golden that play on the amber shade of a Fine Champagne, both subtle and light. Floral aromas and notes of vanilla for this VSOP which is often described as "tender, subtle and elegant".

Delamain Pale & Dry X.O
With an average age of 25 years, the bouquet is made up of honey suckle aromas and vanilla; buttery with hints of spice and has a lovely long finish.

Pierre Ferrand Selection des Anges (30 years)
A rich nose with lots of rancio and a little earthiness; a viscous treat.

Hine Triomphe (Average age of 40-50 years)
The nose packs a range of dried fruits along with notes of leather and tobacco

Brandy de Jerez

Brandy de Jerez is one of the only three brandy D.O. regions world wide, along with Cognac and Armagnac. Its unique taste is due to the solera system that is used to age it; the system used to make sherry. Aileen Dunn, of strategic marketing group Dunn/Robbins, works in association with Wines From Spain. She finds that Brandy de Jerez is the perfect drink for those who don't like harsh spirits. "Brandy from Jerez is just as good as its French counterparts, yet it is very different in style," says Dunn. "Jerez brandies do not have the 'French burn' that turns some people off. I find that people who cannot drink strong spirits instantly like Brandy de Jerez." Along with its D.O. siblings, Brandy de Jerez is making an appearance in the cocktail world and has a plus of being well priced and high quality brandy for mixed drinks.

Brandy de Jerez

Gonzalez Byass Lepanto Solera Gran Reserva
Earthy sherry nose, with hints of nuts and oak. It is light bodied and shows spice and vanilla.

Cardenal Mendoza Solera Gran Reserva
This Solera Gran Reserva is traditionally enjoyed neat in an elegant snifter, but now the brand is actively promoting its use in cocktails, and mixes deliciously with fruit juices, sodas, spirits and coffee.

Pedro Domecq Carlos I
Aromas of coffee, roasted chestnut and vanilla. It is smooth with a hint of sweetness. Perfect with aged semi-soft rich cheeses.

Williams & Humbert Gran Duque De Alba
Luscious nose of milk chocolate, caramel, stewed fruits and vanilla, it shows chocolate and spice elements on the palette; a good one for creamy desserts.

Sanchez Romate Cardenal Mendoza
This brandy has tons of caramel and hints of dark chocolate. it is delicious, viscous and rich.

Grappa

Once the kind of spirit that would put hair on your chest, Grappa has morphed into a respectable and glamorous brandy that now graces some of the best restaurant's beverage menus. It is made from the leftovers of grapes after the must has been extracted for wine. In recent years, Grappa has soared in quality, fetching a higher price by using high quality grape pomace, state-of-the-art distillation methods and, not to mention, the incorporation of hip packaging.

Grappa may seem harsh to the uninitiated. Lara Zahaba, the director of education and public relations at Winebow, recommends handing the novice a grappa made from aromatic white grapes. "Artisanal, high-end producers make great Grappa from Moscato. They tend to be floral, subtle and show good fruit. The last generation of Grappa producers, like Jacopo Poli and Nardini, have developed so many types of Grappa that there really is something that will please everyone."

Grappa

Nonino UE Vitigni Bianchi
Posseses a vegetal and herbaceous bouquet, it is rounded with bready and yeasty qualities.

Amaro Nonino
A unique grappa that is infused with herbs and aged in various woods including old sherry barrels. It has a very pretty amber color with pine forest scents. Incredibly herbaceous and honeyed, it is good for those who desire something on the sweeter side.

Nardini Acquavite di Vinaccia Riserva
Aged in Slavonian oak for at least 3 years, it has a pale-straw color and a complex nose of raw zucchini and flowers. Herbaceous and floral palette.

Jacopo Poli Chiara di Moscato
Made from whole Muscat grapes, this has the typical Muscat notes; peachy and talc-like notes on the nose and good fruit on the palette.

Brandy L'Arzente
Made form the Trebbiano grapes of Soave, it has a golden color due to its average of 10 years aged in various oaks. It has a complex bouquet of must, earth and hints of marzipan. Smooth and rich with an oily viscosity and a great long finish.

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