SOUTHERN EXPOSURE
South African Wines Share the Spotlight with the World Cup
Jim Clarke

A favorable exchange rate has kept the country’s wines well-priced in the American market, despite worldwide economic problems. “We have seen strong growth in the last six months in the U.S. and importantly, new inquiries from importers looking for the first time to include South African properties in their portfolios,” says Su Birch, CEO of Wines of South Africa. “I think importers are recognizing that South African wines are great values. However, South Africa is not by-and-large a low-cost producer; we are very competitive at the premium end where wines are handcrafted. Retailers need to conduct some comparative tastings so that their customers can discover our great quality in wines retailing below $20.”

South Africa 101
Sauvignon Blanc is gaining the most traction in the U.S. as an alternative to the ever-popular imports from New Zealand. “Sometimes the New Zealand Sauvignons are just too much, and it becomes hard to drink a whole bottle,” says Paul Cluver of the eponymous estate in Elgin. “South African Sauvignon gives you the fruit character, but also has the minerality and restraint, which makes them attractive and great wines to drink.” Plantings in South Africa are up by about 30% from 2002 to 2007, with much of that growth in cooler climate areas like Elgin, Walker Bay and Durbanville. These regions rely on maritime influences from the South Atlantic or Indian Oceans to keep cool. Durbanville, for example, within sight of the Atlantic and just 20 minutes outside of Cape Town, has made Sauvignon Blanc their signature grape, and in Elim and Walker Bay, some plantings stretch almost to the beach.

Even inland, regions like Stellenbosch enjoy some of those maritime effects, carried by the “Cape Doctor,” a strong wind that kicks up in the spring and summer. This is generally red wine country, with Cabernet Sauvignon dominating and making up almost 13% of total plantings. However, Rhône varieties are on the upswing, and Syrah plantings are up about 15% from 2002 to 2007. “We’re certainly seeing a rebirth of Rhône-inspired blends with more and more Grenache plantings, although limited,” says Jennifer Kling, marketing manager for Ken Forrester wines, “as well as many more wines incorporating Mourvèdre and Syrah, either co-fermented or blended with Viognier.” On the white side, varietal Viogniers are also becoming more common.

Paarl, which together with Stellenbosch forms the heart of South Africa’s wine country, is seeing more Syrah, as is Swartland further inland. The Sadie Family blends from Swartland have achieved cult status, and several Stellenbosch and Paarl-based producers have created brands to feature Swartland fruit, Charles Back’s Spice Route and the Winery of Good Hope’s Black Rock being just two examples.

The Pinotage Myth
Old mainstay Chenin Blanc remains the most planted grape in South Africa, occupying 18.79% of vineyard land as of 2007, but down from 20.6% five years previously. As a varietal wine it ranges from light, crisp quaffers to off-dry wines to rich, oak-aged opulence—a variability that has trouble earning the trust of many wine drinkers. Blending Chenin with Chardonnay or white Rhône varieties is becoming increasingly fashionable, Chenin providing the acidity and backbone while the other varieties bring roundness and aroma.

This national penchant for blending distinguishes South Africa from many New World wine regions. Bordeaux-style blends are common, and so-called “Cape Blends” incorporate Pinotage into the mix. Pinotage, like Chenin Blanc, has lost some ground,
and now makes up just 6% of vineyard plantings. Abraham Izak Perold, a Stellenbosch University viticulture professor, developed this Pinot Noir-Cinsault cross in 1925, so there’s a good reason to call it the country’s signature variety—if it weren’t such a difficult grape to work with. Nonetheless, many producers feel it still deserves a place. “I think that there is a place for a uniquely South African basket of offerings,” says Mike Ratcliffe, managing director of Warwick Estate in Stellenbosch. “This will always cater to people that are more experimental. Pinotage has an interesting niche and it is a key part of our product offerings.”

Even California Wine Merchants, a NYC wine shop specializing in small-production wines from the state, has rounded out its offerings with select bottles from other sought-after wine regions, including South Africa. For these wines they turned to the Cape Classics portfolio. “We believe they represent the best wines the region has to offer,” says co-owner Jennifer Frank. “One of the wines we are very excited to carry is the De Morgenzon Chenin Blanc. Not only is it distinctive and delicious, but it’s in keeping with our focus on boutique wineries, and is a major grape in South Africa that does not compete with, but complements, our California white wine selections.”

Marketing South Africa
Cap Classique—South Africa’s sparkling wine category—got a bump when President Obama celebrated his 2008 election victory with Graham Beck’s Brut NV. These are made by the Champagne method, and increasingly with traditional Champagne grapes rather than Chenin Blanc or Sauvignon Blanc.

Overall there’s been a change in attitude: “Perhaps the biggest jump in quality has come from a move away from horticultural vineyard management to viticultural management and the adoption of a ‘winegrowing’ mentality,’” says Ratcliffe. Recent vintages have also been kind; since the excellent 2003 harvest, 2005 has been the only shaky year for most regions, and even it yielded some excellent reds.

In addition, winery owners and winemakers have had a chance to learn not just the tools and techniques, but also reconsider the goals of those techniques. “Wine styles have moved away from tannic expressions to balanced tannins and more clean fruit expressions, reflecting our unique biodiversity and terroir on all levels,” says Matthew van Heerden, winemaker at Uva Mira, a Stellenbosch property. “Wineries and brands have also paid attention to their relevant local and international markets.”

The industry’s 350th anniversary may have wrapped up, but a lot more attention will be paid to the country as a whole in 2010, as it’s the first African nation to host soccer’s World Cup.

South African wines will continue to gain exposure most significantly, perhaps, in the on-premise. “Most clientele are familiar with the California New World category and are looking to make a comparison, which is hard to do because the South African terroir is so unique,” explains Tarita Noronha of NYC’s Braai South African Bar & Restaurant and Xai Xai South African Wine Bar. “The rise in popularity of South African wines has come in part from the media recognition of South Africa as a major player. Additionally, young vintages are not as heavy as some other New World wines despite its higher alcohol content. This quality also does not affect the balance of many South African wines, and the wines provide an earthiness that takes you back to the land. Another major selling point for people is the value—you can still get award-winning wines at reasonable prices. Mostly I see people trying to branch out from the everyday Sauvignon Blancs and Chardonnays—our customers come in because they are curious and are hoping to try what is ‘authentic’.”

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