Champagne: A Wine for All Seasons
Jeffery Lindenmuth

"I must say that when we look at the numbers over many years we still have roughly 45 percent of our sales in November and December," says Bernard Ganter, director on-trade relations for Moët de Chandon. "We've been working on the other logical seasons, which include May and June with weddings and graduations and that's given a good boost to our business too."

Gary Fisch, owner of two locations of Gary's Wine & Marketplace in New Jersey agrees. "I think it is extremely seasonal. I think more than they'd like it to be," says Fisch. "I don't believe the Champagne houses have done enough to make it more mainstream. It's definitely the holiday and secondary months of May and June. We've personally worked very hard during Valentine's Day… creating baskets with glasses, chocolate and triple cream cheese, caviar, anything to try to be romantic but they haven't really set the world on fire."

Fisch is somewhat disappointed in the post-millennial Champagne world. "Probably millions of people had Champagne for the first time in their lives for the Millennium, and I think few Champagne houses did a good job to continue that."

But perhaps the greatest opportunity for Champagne lies not within a single calendar month, but with a far more common occasion - dinner. Nearly all wine directors agree, Champagne is one of the most food friendly wines there is, not just for fine dining, but to make any meal special. As a retailer or on-premise purveyor, it's important to include Champagne in your arsenal of wine recommendations and to be prepared to explain why the effervescent and vibrantly acidic wine is even more magical at the dinner table.

"In terms of the food pairing we are working to position Champagne as a wine that's exciting with many different kinds of foods. It does not need to be elaborate or expensive foods. It does not need to be caviar like in the movies," says Ganter. "In a bar situation, for example, tapas, which are obviously Spanish, are very enjoyable with Champagne. We want to make it informal, casual."

Great chefs like Ferran Adria of Spain's groundbreaking El Bulli also embrace the amazing versatility of Champagne. "He has the ability to transform aromas and flavors, says Francois Peltereau-Villeneuve, VP and general manager Laurent Perrier. The guy mixes and transforms everything, and it's common to have 42 courses. You can't have 42 wines, so the only drink that we could pair with all the food was Champagne and Ferran told me he agrees."

Indeed, whether a customer is having fondue or sushi, take-out Thai or foie gras with truffles, Champagne is a good pick to have in your back pocket, and certainly one they'll both return for and remember.

The versatility of Champagne is further enhanced by a breadth of sweetness and styles that is too often dominated by Brut, the driest style - something that runs counter intuitive to the American penchant for soda and sweet cocktails. Why not offer a demi-sec as a dessert wine? Peltereau-Villeneuve likes to pair sweeter Champagnes with chocolate cake or lemon tart and admits he enjoys Laurent Perrier Rosé with pizza. "We tell people that Champagne is the only alcoholic beverage that you can drink 24 hours a day."

According to Christian Holthausen, brand manager Charles Heidsieck Champagne, which produces only about 20,000 cases annually, "Our product stands up to food quite well. I do a lot of all Champagne dinners and much of our on-premise programming consists of staff education, explaining why our Champagne is so flexible with food."

Another boost to Champagnes versatility occurred over the last few years with the proliferation of single serving, 187ml packages, now offered by nearly every producer. These tiny bottles of tiny bubbles have taken some of the commitment phobia out of opening a pricey standard 750ml. And they are also the fashionable favorite of a generation that is rediscovering classic cocktails that demand just a splash of bubbly, like the Champagne cocktail and French 75.

"The small bottles are perfect for specific environments," says Pascal Boyé, director of sales, North America for Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte. "We've long produced splits for the airline market, specifically Air France, and now they are the preferred size for on-premise drinking in the hip clubs of SoHo, at fashion shows and art openings, like those we sponsor with the Museum of Modern Art."

However, even the in-crowd doesn't sip the diminutive bottles through a straw when staying in for the night. "In the case of home consumption, I think the half bottle has the greatest potential. For either a couple or someone living alone, it's a perfect size." Boyé says restaurant sales are still dominated by the tried-and-true 750 ml., although hotels are another up and coming half bottle outlet. Be aware that these quarter and half bottles will age more rapidly than a conventional size and should not be stored for an extended period.

With his genuine personal passion for the drink, Fisch is always recommending Champagne, and scoring sales. "It's partially because I love Champagne and also I believe it's a very easy extra sale," says Fisch. "For almost any cocktail or dinner party we suggest they start off with bubbly. You can serve it as people arrive, do it with a first course or a main course. People clearly don't stock Champagne and that makes me excited about it because it's an additional sale. If somebody buys bottles of vodka there will be leftover, but if we add Champagne as part of the event, even with dessert, it always goes away. People will consume it."

Champagne: The Ultimate Food Wine

"There is nothing easier and better than smoked salmon and a mini Moët."
- Bernard Ganter, Director on-trade relations, Moët de Chandon

"I love Laurent Perrier Rosé with a homemade pizza. And our Ultra Brut is Champagne at its best, ideal with oysters and shellfish."
- Francois Peltereau-Villeneuve, vice-president and general manager Laurent Perrier U.S.

"The Champagne Charlie 85 is great with a roasted loin of pork because it is rich and heavy in a big Pinot Noir style."
- Christian Holthausen, brand manager Charles Heidsieck Champagne Bellefon

"Our chef, Maryann Terillo, created a dish of scallops with a falafel crust and roasted tomato-cucumber salad specifically with the Bellefon Rosé in mind. It is a wonderful combination. The Bellefon Champagnes were created for restaurants to pair with food, so they are very easy to pair with almost anything."
- Tony Powe, owner, Jarnac Restaurant, Manhattan

For the next month Champagne will sell itself. Keep these tips in mind for the rest of the year.

• Suggest Champagne as a food wine.


• Explain the variety of styles and offer sweeter styles, like demi-sec, to those who prefer sweeter drinks.


• Always recommend Champagne when stocking for a dinner party or event.


• Stock a variety of sizes and suggest the right size for the right occasion.

Ever in search of fine drink, Jeffery Lindenmuth regularly contributes reviews and tales of good tipples to Food Arts, Taste, and Wine & Spirits. He has also appeared in men's magazines including Men's Health, Maxim, Stuff, Gear and Esquire.

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